HAMPTONe4. WIRING THE POWER ENTRY / PSU INTEGRATION
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1. Cut the 18 gauge gray wire to 4", and strip/tin both ends ½". Solder the ring terminal to one end of the gray wire by pushing the wire into the open end of the terminal so that the exposed wire just sticks out the end of the terminal. Fill the hole with solder.
2. Remove the bottom of the chassis from its bag, and install the 4 feet into the 4 holes in the corners using the hardware listed below, all the hardware for this is in the "Chassis hardware" bag. The four flat washers push inside the feet, then the bolt goes through so it is recessed. Put the wire with the terminal you made in the previous step, under the nut of the foot by the large square hole in the back of the chassis, the power entry module. Just the lock nut is on the inside. Tighten them snug but not over tight. Set the chassis on the bench and make sure it doesn’t wobble. Adjust the feet if it does.
4 x 5/16" 4-40 panhead philips machine screws
4 x #4 flat washers
4 x rubber feet
4 x 4-40 lock nuts
3. Install the power entry module to the chassis using the two 3/8" flathead screws in the "Power entry" bag. These require no nut as the chassis is threaded..
4. Install the power switch into the chassis. There are two nuts, one lock washer, and one flat washer for the switch. Put one nut on the switch, then the large washer (bend the tab on it flat), put this through the chassis from the inside. Then put the lock washer on the outside of the chassis, and finally the second nut. Tighten the switch making sure it is aligned straight up and down.
5. Install the fuse holder so the contact at the end (which sticks out perpendicular) is facing down. Leave the fuse and end cap out for now.
6. Cut/strip/tin the following 18 gauge wire: 2" yellow, 2.5" yellow, 5" blue. Solder the correct lengths of two yellow and one blue piece per the psu schematic. Twist the blue wires around the yellow wires finally soldering it to the switch. Be careful not to overheat the fuse holder. With all of these connections, make certain you fill the holes (especially the power entry module), and that you have no frayed wires that are not soldered in place. Also make sure there is no melted jacket on any of these wires, this is 120VAC!
7. Install the fuse, and end cap by twisting it CW with a small screwdriver.
8. (OLD PHOTO, PEM UPSIDE DOWN, REPLACE PHOTO ) Set your voltmeter to AC volts in a range that will cover the input voltage of your AC power (115 or 220/240). Connect your meter to the two center contacts of the switch. Plug the cord in, and verify you measure 115VAC (or 240VAC) between the two center contacts of the switch when it is flipped up, and goes off when the switch is flipped down. Unplug the cord. Even when the switch is off, if you have the cord plugged in, there is AC power on the power entry/fuse/switch. ALWAYS REMOVE THE CORD AFTER ANY TESTING. NEVER WORK ON THE UNIT WITH THE CORD PLUGGED IN!!!
9. Cut/strip/tin the: red, yellow, purple, and black wires that have large black jackets on the power transformer to 4" in length. Twist the black with yellow, and the red with purple. These wires are the AC input. DO NOT CUT THE: BLUE, RED, BROWN, AND GREEN WIRES THAT DO NOT HAVE THE BLACK JACKETS. Twist these four wires together leaving them full length. If you cut these wires off, it is very difficult to tin the inner conductor (some may be mag wire) and you more than likely will not make a good connection.
10. Install the power transformer using the following hardware:
2" #8-32 Philips panhead machine screw
#10 isolation washer (plastic washer with flange)
#8 ¼" length nylon spacer
#8 metal washer
#8-32 lock nut.
The isolation washer goes onto the bolt with the flange facing away from the head of the bolt, put this through the bottom of the chassis with the flange going into the hole in the chassis. On the inside of the chassis, put the transformer onto the bolt, then the #8 X ¼" nylon spacer, #8 flat washer, and finally the # 8-32 lock nut on top. Tighten it with the red/green/blue/brown wires pointing toward the psu board. The lock nut will be difficult to turn after the first 4-5 turns, this is by design, they are made to not come off.
11. Wire the power transformer to the switch, AC input wiring is different for 120 and 220/240vac (see schematic/p-p drawing).
12. Strip/tin the following wires roughly 1/8" on each end: 2 x 12" 22 gauge green (ground), 2 x 12" 22 gauge yellow (+48VDC), and 2 x 12" 22 gauge red (+25.5VDC). Twist them into two sets with one of each color in each set (G/Y/R). Solder the channel one set to the psu pcb pads shown on the schematic, leave the rest out for the moment.
13. Wire the red/green/blue/brown wires to the psu pcb according to the schematic. These wires are may be mag wire with an outer shield that is not attached to the wire, and therefore can slide along it. When installing these wires, you must gently pull the bare wire from the copper side of the board so that the jacket is pressed hard against the board. If you don’t do this, the inner conductor may be exposed, and cause a short with one of the other leads. Also be very careful not to overheat these, or the jacket will melt. If you melt these and can see exposed wire, insulate it with shrink tubing or electrical tape.
14. Again perform a thorough visual inspection of the bottom of the psu pcb. Make certain all the point-point wires you just attached are clipped off. If they are not they can short to the chassis and damage the psu.
15. Bolt the psu board in place using just 2 of the ¼" philips panhead screws in adjacent corners.
